CBOSS REACHES NEW HEIGHT

CBOSS reaches new height as on June 24, 2002, 12:00 the corporate standard goes up on top of the Elbrus western peak (5,642m), the highest point in Europe. In spite of careful and strict training course undertook by CBOSS expedition, the weather of the Caucasus kept jeopardizing its outcome, with heavy rains and notorious flood in the southern Russia to follow. The next day of the enforced delay saw stabilization of the highland weather and the CBOSS team of two climbers could reach the Priut-11 camp (4,100m), to start an acclimatization procedure. The two prerequisites for the final climb, namely the acclimatization itself, and registration at the Emercom office usually take one or two days. As for the weather, you never know but nobody would dare to start out until the weather permits. The unstable climate at the summit resembles that of Antarctica with severe outbreaks and low atmospheric pressure that is only half of that typical to the Moscow region. Insufficient acclimatization will lead sickness symptoms that could make further climbing the worst nightmare of your life. We performed training climbs at the height of 4,800-5,100 meters to get used to the severe environmental conditions, equipped with special mountain goggles and covered with sun-protection cream.

The day of the final climbing began for us at three. However, it was only four thirty when we started out. Austrian, Polish and other groups that undertook the climbing at the same day started out even earlier. Naturally, an early start gives you two obvious advantages – several hours without burning sun and a crust of ice instead of the melting squash it turns to after noon, to go by. As for the special equipment it was reduced to mountain boots, climbing irons, canes and weatherproof clothes. At the Pastukhov’s rocks (4,800m) we caught up with the three o’clock group that was on the same trail and took over it without special effort. The trail resembles a huge steep staircase, treaded out by the previous groups. Experienced climbers say that the real thing begins above the Pastukhov’s rocks. The truth is that volcanic gases that make their way up to the surface break the glacier along the trail, creating dangerous, sometimes very big caverns covered with snow, making it hard to breathe for the climbers and contributing to the growing intoxication and lack of oxygen. Suddenly you feel that each step towards the destination, takes all your energy and you can hardly move. What’s next? And at that moment you are there. The pass between the eastern and western peaks has excellent ventilation and you breathe with the almost forgotten ease. The scenery is magic. Another planet? The silence, coated in the impeccable white snow, brimmed with the blackness of the blue sky…

Now up to the peak itself. There are no volcanic gases here, yet there is significantly less oxygen too. We make five-minute breaks after every fifty feet we cover to regain breath. The slope is much steeper however and you feel lack of oxygen badly. It takes time to find the four by four meter spot that marks the exact top of the Elbrus for the first time… But when you are on top… you understand a lot but cannot utter a word… CBOSS standard reigns on the top… Far beyond it you guess the climbers making their way up.

When you are on the top, you feel that you did something that is very important. Our way back is easier than the eight hours of the exhausting way up to the top. Suddenly you feel every part of your body aching for rest. But, definitely there is something to write back home- thirteen hours of the leader’s climbing, impressions, still very fresh and distinct, and CBOSS standard marking the roof of Europe.

Narrated by Pavel Milutin.